Life is what it is and so is adventure travel

Most any adventure is found because of the perceptions you bring with you. This blog is not for the person who can’t leave “home” behind or thinks even the color of the coffee is a problem. It is for the fearless at heart and the romantic of mind. Nothing kills a great vacation like inflexibility and rigidness.  You could have a much nicer vacation if  you don’t sweat the small details. Oh and don’t forget to leave your huge expectations at home. Sure we all like that familiar schedule of our daily life but accepting the challenges of traveling often changes your life in unforeseen ways, sometimes even dramatically.  How often do you walk down a 200 year old cobblestone street hand in hand and then dine at a sidewalk cafe or do you take a hike deep into the rainforest and get lost to find yourself sleeping there for the night? It’s romantic to have couple time and to commune with nature, being in an unfamiliar place adds the spice. We recently had a couple staying with us who turned  what could have been a hiking disaster into an adventure and a remarkable memory. More on that a little later.

Our tiny bed and breakfast has all kinds of guests from all walks of life and all age groups. The best traveling guests can not be anticipated ahead of time, unless of course they are the guests that should have been recommended to another more commodious (read “stuffy resort”) place in the beginning.

Here at the Rainforest Inn we are urban pioneers of a sort. We have gotten used to going with plan B from the first days of our [intlink id="8" type="category"]repairs of a hurricane ravaged family estate[/intlink]. Before we opened our bed and breakfast we didn’t have electricity or running water. Now that calls for a lot of flexibility. I won’t say we didn’t want to kill each other once in a while, then that same evening we would have a candle light dinner on the roof of one of the unfinished buildings on the property. Don’t think for a minute that we didn’t sometimes say W.T.H. did we get ourselves into, but that’s another whole blog.

Nick and Ena’s hiking disaster happened after they made it to a secret waterfall deep in the El Yunque Rainforest on the Mameyes river that we had talked about as a potential hiking destination. This is a spot reserved for only the adventurous and not easy to find. It’s off a trail that is not one of the paved easy trails that everyone else takes. It’s located past the end of a steep muddy trail up a ways deeper in the rainforest and even more secluded.

Mameyes River Waterfall Deep in the El Yunque Rainforest

In the photo: Behind the large rock in the center of the pool in front of the waterfall is deeper water where you can swim in and out under the full force of the falls. This secret waterfall is one of the nicest in El Yunque tropical rainforest. As an aside, an important aside, please don’t send me an email asking for directions to this waterfall. It’s not that we don’t want people going there (or maybe that’s part of it because it is a really unspoiled location) but it’s the danger of hiking there that must be made very clear first. We also talk with our guests at breakfast about other easier hikes and about what you can do to avoid getting lost and what you should do once you know you’re lost, then they make their decision on which hikes are for them.

Because this is not the first time I’ve been involved in rescue process of someone  lost in the rainforest  I’ve learned some things, many of which are counter-intuitive and surprising. There are great differences between our El Yunque rainforest of Puerto Rico and the northern deciduous forest where most of our visitors have gotten their hiking experience.

Ena enjoying a swim below the secret waterfall

The rainforest is a “jungle”. It’s very dense and everywhere confusing green growth blocks your view. I guess most people realize this as it’s what jungle means. Once a hiker goes off the trail he won’t be able to see far enough to find the trail again and it will be very difficult to make your way through the dense growth and even more difficult to plan your route as cliffs and other obstacles won’t be visible until you’re right on top of them.

The usual boy scout rules for what to do when you’re lost don’t apply here. Don’t stay where you are (unless you’re injured and still on the trail — if you’re injured and lost then you’re really screwed which I will explain soon too).

Please understand two important differences about the process of searching for lost hikers in the El Yunque rainforest of Puerto Rico and how it would be done in a vast northern forest like the Appalachians or the Sierra Nevada.

1. Puerto Rico is a small island. It is only thirty miles by one hundred miles. You could walk from one side to the other (from the Caribbean to the Atlantic) in less than two days.

2. We don’t have search planes (or at least we don’t use them in the rescue process) and we certainly don’t have helicopters with advanced infrared devices that will find you in the jungle (that would be nice but it is only happens in the movies).

Photo taken by Nick from his perch on a cliff before spending the night with Ena in the jungle

When someone is lost in the rainforest we find out because the hikers told us or told someone else where they were going that day and they haven’t returned by the next morning. For our guests we always strongly suggest they give us an itinerary of the hikes they plan to do and when. The first step after that  is to look and see if their car is parked at the trail head where they said they were going. Then we hike down the trail to see if we find them down there still because they may be injured. This time I was in San Juan working so my nephew Jimmy volunteered to hike down the trail. In the worse case we look for evidence that there was a flash flood in the nearby swimming areas. We also take a very loud air horn which can be heard like from my bed and breakfast to the peak of El Yunque and back. But everytime I’ve done this first step I’ve never found anyone and luckily never found evidence of someone being injured.

Nick and Ena with DNR ranger Louis Martinez

The next step is to report the missing hikers to the El Yunque security patrol officers (or often done as part of the first step). In this case we called Jose Ayala the law enforcement patrol captain of the U.S. forest service enforcement and investigative branch. They have arrangements with the local Department of Natural Resources and the Rio Grande rescue volunteers and they will organize and mobilize the vast effort to find someone who is lost. It is important to realize that this next step is costly and will likely involve many days of fruitless searching because as I explained earlier the rainforest is dense and visibility is poor so our searchers will practically have to step on you before they find you. This is why if you get lost in the rainforest and then get injured you are in such deep trouble. It will likely be several days or more before you are found. So please if you find yourself lost and you don’t have a map, or a compass, or a GPS or a cell phone then avoid panic. Realize that all is not lost. It will be fairly straight forward to walk out of there. If you have no idea which direction to walk then go down hill. Follow a stream. Be careful with the slippery rocks and go around impassible brush while you walk beside the stream following it down hill. Eventually that stream will hit the ocean and well before that you will encounter a road and civilization. Puerto Rico is a small densely populated island and there are houses everywhere.

Ena, Laurie, Bill & Nick back at the Rainforest Inn

Our guests Nick and Ena got lost when it started raining on their way out. In their hurry to get out of the rain and because of poor visibility they got off the trail. They knew that they could find their way out and didn’t give up even when the straight line route (you can catch glimpses of the sun or go by elevation changes to be sure you’re not walking in circles) ended at a cliff and several patches of nearly impassible brush. As darkness was descending upon them they realized they were spending the night in the rainforest. They had drinking water (never hike anywhere without enough drinking water) and it doesn’t get so cold at night here but you will spend an uncomfortable hungry night. They spent the night, watched the sunset and the darkness close in while listening to the raucous jungle sounds. Ena discovered some insect life she would have rather not have known so intimately while she tried to sleep.

The following morning Nick spotted a coke can up the hill and later a discarded tire (they were happy to see the litter of civilization) and walked up past that to find the road.  We hadn’t yet mobilized the search and rescue crew and everyone went back to the Rainforest Inn. Ena mentioned they were disappointed that they would miss the ginger pancakes breakfast. We were very happy to see them when they returned at around noon or so and made them their ginger pancakes for lunch. They are now looking forward to their next visit to Puerto Rico and some more hikes, possibly shorter hikes.

Nick and Ena are the perfect example of your fearless and romantic travelers who learned first hand that life is what it is and so is traveling!

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About Bill

With my wife Laurie we are renovating an old family estate in the El Yunque rainforest of Puerto Rico to turn it into a bed and breakfast. Many years ago I was the editor of an entertainment magazine in Los Angeles and I studied journalism at the University of Nevada so all the grammatical (and spelling) errors are purely the fault of that edification.
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5 Responses to Life is what it is and so is adventure travel

  1. Nick says:

    This is such a great post Bill! Thank you both again, for the amazing adventure. After spending my first week back here in the “jungle” of NYC, part of me wishes I was back on the mountain – lol! Anyway, be well and thanks again for your wonderful hospitality.

  2. Julio says:

    This why no one should go alone into the jungle without an expert guide!!!!!

  3. Nathan Allanach says:

    I am very happy my brother and Ena made it back to the US safe. I spent eight years in the Marine Corps I will have to teach my brother some survival tactics. I love him deeply and I thank all who helped to find Nick and Ena and get them home safely. Thank you all and God Bless.

  4. Anna says:

    Bill,
    I really enjoyed this post!!I have a little bit of the feeling of what it could be like to be lost when I was lost for 4 hours!!Everything does look the same, especially in the rain or when it starts to get dark.
    I love what you wrote about flexibility!I’m sure you know I am backpacking Europe and today was a good example of needing to be adaptable. I am in Athens,my friend and I were awakened early this morning with the loudest protest I have ever heard.We plans to take the ferry to the island of Ios. We checked out of our hotel and went to book our tickets. Apparently today there were no ferries going to Ios so we would have to go at 7:30am tomorrow(I’m sure you remember how much I love getting up early). We had to scramble to find another place to stay and had troubles with our credit cards. The internet was down at our hotel so we had trouble planning ahead.
    Alas reception recommended a local flea market which we very much enjoyed and we found this magical little rooftop garden restaurant overlooking the Parthenon. They had extraordinary fried cheese balls and yummy yummy stuffed grape leaves!!(which made me think of you and Laurie). We always see everything as an adventure and keep our good attitudes. Hope you guys are well!

  5. Debbie says:

    Wow, these pictures are great! What a location for a B&B! Pretty spectacular.

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